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Jbender5
USA
32 Posts |
 Posted - Mar 09 2010 : 11:25:51
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| I am looking for help on how to hook back up two batteries to a single engine. I saw the earlier post on how to do this so that my Perco switch can have each battery running by itself or have it set on both and run off of both batteries. The part I do not understand, which was not in the diagram, is which battery to hook up the accessories to (fishfinder,gps,bilge pumps, radios, lights, etc). The boat is a 23' Boston Whaler Outrage. Also I kind of remember one of the bilge pumps being hooked up so that it would have power all of the time even if the Perco switch was on off. I should have labeled everything before the marina took out the batteries. Any help is greatly appreciated. |
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Radioactive
USA
9976 Posts |
Posted - Mar 09 2010 : 11:34:34
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I can't help with how your boat -was- hooked up, but I would hook it up this way:
Hook up the engine, and all of it's associated electronics to battery (1). Hook everything else up to battery two.
Hook the engine alternator output to battery one ( only ).
Connect a "battery combiner" between the two batteries. This will allow charging of battery (2) when the engine is running, and battery (1) is at, or near, full charge.
For safety reasons, each battery should have it's own "on/off" switch, located between the battery and any/all other connections. ( This is an emergency cut-off switch )
I am fairly certain that others will have different solutions... |
Bill
"No matter where you go, there you are." -- Buckaroo Bonzai
"There is nothing--absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." - Kenneth Grahame |
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Jbender5
USA
32 Posts |
Posted - Mar 09 2010 : 11:43:45
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| I would like to have the engine and accesories work on either battery 1 or battery 2 or both. |
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jamikito
USA
12 Posts |
Posted - Mar 09 2010 : 13:08:00
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quote:
Originally posted by Jbender5
I would like to have the engine and accesories work on either battery 1 or battery 2 or both.
May I ask, what is a battery combiner? Do you possibly mean a battery isolator.
If you are going to charge 2 batteries you might want to check out the capacity of the alternator, it may not be able to charge 2 batteries with out overlaoding.
Putting both house and engine batteries kind of defeats the purpose of haveing 2 batteries. If you draw too much or too long both batteries are dead, no way to start your engine and get home. |
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KiDa
USA
12769 Posts |
Posted - Mar 09 2010 : 14:21:19
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For what you want, here is a simple diagram.
Here it is from BE itself. See option B
http://www.boatfix.com/how/Ele1.html
You can get the switches that have a small fused link for your stereo memory etc. I am not sure how the bilge pump is wired or if it is wired to the switch. Those a lot smarter than me can guide you to the correct gauge wire from the batteries to the switch.
BF has the switches.
HTH
Good luck.
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Best Regards,
David
Saint Max
'99 330 Sundancer
==========
Capitalism is to this administration what Judaism was to the Third Reich.
-- Me |
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stmbtwle
8757 Posts |
Posted - Mar 09 2010 : 18:38:19
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A battery combiner (also called an ACR or a VSR) does essentially the same thing as a battery isolator but it's NOT the same critter. Most would say a combiner is better. Either one if properly installed will charge BOTH batteries regardless of the "selector switch" position.
I agree with Radioactive, have the accessories connected to battery #2 and the "engine vital" circuits to battery #1. If you want to start off either battery then leave your "1-2-both" switch connected.
Depending on how your boat is wired you may have to segregate all the "non vital" stuff and run a new wire from battery #2 to power it. Then the engine runs off bat#1 and the other stuff off bat#2... the combiner or isolator will still charge both batteries. You would leave your engine selector switch on bat#1 except in emergencies.
If you're on the hook and run the stereo and TV all night, only bat#2 will go dead, #1 (the engine battery) should remain charged to start your engine and get you home.
Bilge pumps are normally connected directly to a battery, so they're not affected by the position of the selector switch. If the pumps are on the switch, turning the switch "off" disables the pumps (not a good plan if the boat is in the water). |
Willie... She's a tired old gal but she's paid for! (several times over) |
Edited by - stmbtwle on Mar 09 2010 18:53:41 |
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Veebyes
Bermuda
2445 Posts |
Posted - Mar 10 2010 : 08:09:51
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Over 25 years of boating, all of it weekend overnighting & I still don't understand boaters fixations with having starting batterys & house batterys.
If you have your battery switch located in a convenient easy to reach location it is all very simple. Run on all banks, no matter how many you have. For overnighting, when there will be DC draw for a long period of time, switch to one or another or combos of banks that you have, taking one bank out leaving it as your reserve should you inadvetantly kill what was being used as the house battery.
I have never had a multi-engined boat. I have always had multi battery banks controlled by a switch. The current boat has 3 banks of batterys which can be used for any purpose in any combination. The system has worked for the 13 year lifespan of the boat. |
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KiDa
USA
12769 Posts |
Posted - Mar 10 2010 : 09:01:53
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| Not all boats come with multiple banks and switches. |
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Best Regards,
David
Saint Max
'99 330 Sundancer
==========
Capitalism is to this administration what Judaism was to the Third Reich.
-- Me |
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stmbtwle
8757 Posts |
Posted - Mar 10 2010 : 09:18:32
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No doubt it works, IF one has the discipline to manage the system, which you and some others do. A lot of folks don't, or the battery switch is in an awkward location, or they just want to be "safe". You only have to forget ONCE.
My current boat has a starting battery and a 6-battery house bank. There is NO selector switch; though I do have a "jump" solenoid if the starting battery fails. A combiner and an isolator keep all the batteries charged (yes I know I could remove the isolator).
The system is completely automatic so there's nothing to forget, and that works for me. |
Willie... She's a tired old gal but she's paid for! (several times over) |
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Stephen
USA
1948 Posts |
Posted - Mar 10 2010 : 20:33:40
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| I added the simple switch setup as shown above in my boat. I also added a small 8 device breaker panel to replace all of the wires just being joined together at the key switch. It was very easy to install and works well for me. The bilge switch also goes through the breaker panel. After using the boat I always turn everything off except for the bilge pump and switch the battery position to A. When I go to start the boat I set it to BOTH and just leave it that way until I'm done for the day. My particular goal is to just have a spare battery kept charged in case the other one fails. |
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Billylll
USA
8047 Posts |
Posted - Mar 10 2010 : 20:40:59
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In my opinion the best set up is the highest current BlueSea ACR (auto charge relay) with the optional remote switch. Hook all electronics to battery 2 and the engine and it's electronics to battery #1 once the 1st battery charges the 2nd will charge. In an emergency the override switch can disable the ACR or parallel the batterys. In the auto position the ACR does all the proper charging. You and the ACR have total control as long as you get the 3 position remote switch. In addition each battery should have an on/off high current manual switch.
Bill |
WirelessOne,
40 Mainship
Sedan Bridge
Little Egg, N.J. |
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KiDa
USA
12769 Posts |
Posted - Mar 10 2010 : 20:57:36
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Willie:
It only takes one time to get discipline. DAMHIK. I used my 1/all/2 on the regal in this manner:
Odd calendar dates, 1 start, 2 house on the hook, all back in.
Even calendar dates, 2 start, 1 house on the hook, all back in.
Worked well for me.
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Best Regards,
David
Saint Max
'99 330 Sundancer
==========
Capitalism is to this administration what Judaism was to the Third Reich.
-- Me |
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Ghost
USA
5423 Posts |
Posted - Mar 11 2010 : 00:13:32
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Get the blue sea charge relay. Switches work for veebyes and maybe one other person. Everyone else either forgets or never understands what to do in the first place and eventually they end up with dead batteries in a place where they can't get a jump start. Seen that trick quite a few times, once (not me) in a rocky high current passage going on the rocks. This stupid couple overnighted next to me on the DOCK of all places and partied and let their frige run down everything. They complained that the "marina power" drained their battery. No really. Then got a jump and instead of letting the battery charge, they headed out immediately. Idling in the pass, the engine died and they could not restart. They called the CG and sent out a frantic mayday. When the CG arrived, they were gone but did not bother to cancel the mayday.
Folks, boats don't work like cars. You actually have to take the time to know your systems and operate them properly. Dead batteries on a multi bank boat is 100% avoidable. Switches are high error prone devices by the user. Automatic paralleling relays are not so error prone for the user. That's why you should get one.
I don't use 1/2/all switches. They are an accident waiting to happen. |
What part of GALE WARNING did you not understand? |
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stmbtwle
8757 Posts |
Posted - Mar 11 2010 : 05:43:13
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True, it only takes one time to "get" discipline, but for some folks that's the LAST time.
Calendars don't work for me. Half the time I don't know what date it is and even if I do I don't care, nor am I going to get up at midnight just to switch batteries while at anchor. Anyway, my house bank has six times the capacity of my starting battery; it wouldn't make sense to alternate between batteries. |
Willie... She's a tired old gal but she's paid for! (several times over) |
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jtybt15
USA
21102 Posts |
Posted - Mar 11 2010 : 08:22:03
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popcorn time!!
As you can see, there are many ways to wire your batteries. Just hook the bilge pump with auto switch straight(and fused) to one of the batteries.
You don't have to but I hook a toggle switch in to run the bilge pump from the dash...I also have an alarm(buzzer) to alert anytime the bilge gets turned on for any reason.
Oh! Willie has a house boat and solar system. He need the fridge to keep all his beer cold. |
Charlie
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Edited by - jtybt15 on Mar 11 2010 08:25:39 |
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stmbtwle
8757 Posts |
Posted - Mar 11 2010 : 08:38:58
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| Thanks Charlie! I was going to go into a long explanation of how/why the boat is set up, but you covered it!!! |
Willie... She's a tired old gal but she's paid for! (several times over) |
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KiDa
USA
12769 Posts |
Posted - Mar 11 2010 : 08:50:24
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Willie:
It's a 23 foot Whaler. Your battery bank alone would sink a boat that is allegedly unsinkable!  |
____________
Best Regards,
David
Saint Max
'99 330 Sundancer
==========
Capitalism is to this administration what Judaism was to the Third Reich.
-- Me |
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marathon man
USA
264 Posts |
Posted - Mar 11 2010 : 09:26:23
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| Hey Veebyes, since there's only one other person, it must be me. The system has worked for me without fail. |
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stmbtwle
8757 Posts |
Posted - Mar 11 2010 : 13:26:49
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Well a 23' skiff doesn't have the electrical needs of a houseboat, so two batteries should do just fine; with a selector switch AND a charge relay to make sure they both stay charged. The Yandina 100 relay at $60 is cheaper than a good battery.
IMO running with the switch in "both" means that sooner or later, "both" will turn up dead. It just hasn't happened to you, YET.
An alternative (and cheaper) method would be the existing single battery and a "jump start" pack from the auto supply store. They work, IF you remember to charge 'em once in a while. |
Willie... She's a tired old gal but she's paid for! (several times over) |
Edited by - stmbtwle on Mar 11 2010 13:30:21 |
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Veebyes
Bermuda
2445 Posts |
Posted - Mar 11 2010 : 18:55:23
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Marathon Man, Yup even when I had a 21' cuddy cabin it was habit. Turn off engine. Open hatch to one or other battery from BOTH.
Every year I bought a new battery. The new battery became primary START battery. The one year old battery became the HOUSE battery. The old HOUSE battery went into the car. The now 3 year old car battery became my storm battery for some 12V in the house. |
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stmbtwle
8757 Posts |
Posted - Mar 11 2010 : 23:02:26
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Sounds like a good plan. Now if I can just figure out how to put 6v golf batteries in my 300v hybrid car...
But for the price I'd still get that battery combiner.
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Willie... She's a tired old gal but she's paid for! (several times over) |
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Topic |
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Hooking back up dual batteries on a single engine